From James Bond to the boardroom, the double-breasted suit jacket is a sartorial option that’s been decidedly non-stuffy from the start: they were initially a casual alternative to the formal tailcoat. The frame-defining silhouette takes inspiration from naval jackets and it wasn’t until the 1920s that they would be worn in an office. Wartime shortages of cloth caused the style to fall out of favor for all but the wealthiest, and it might be here was where the suit picked up its modern connotation of seniority and authority. Another reason might tie to the British royal family, namely Edward VII, the Duke of Windsor, who revived the style’s popularity in the Isles.
These days, double-breasted suits aren’t as serious. We’ve seen celebrities like Daniel Kaluuya rock an all black double-breasted suit over a plain tee on the night he won an Oscar, so there’s certainly precedent to dress it down. Cutting-edge fashion labels are also in the process of reviving the style, in ode to the seventies, with oversized fits and peaked lapels making it onto runways. We even saw David Beckham make quite the impression in a Dior double-breasted waistcoat not too long ago. All these examples serve to say that the double-breasted jacket is quickly becoming one of the most versatile styles around. So how do you bring it into your wardrobe?
An easy way to wear it out of the office is to take inspiration from its origins with a nautically inspired aesthetic. Throw one over a striped shirt and some trousers to make for an ideal brunch look or layer it with a thick knitted jersey or cardigan for when it gets cold. The spacious silhouette keeps you comfortable and the simple way each piece works together make it an iconic outfit.
For your days off or nights out, consider simply layering your double breasted jacket over a hoodie and sweats to truly put the contrast into smart casual. Adding structure to an otherwise undefined silhouette, this is an easy way to upgrade your outfit without putting too much effort. This is a look that says you’re about your business even when you’re just kicking it with the boys.
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Yours in style.
MARKHAM
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